Extended Memories - Destination Maastricht

The skies welcomed our decision to tour the historic city of Maastricht with blazing sun-shine and unusually warm temperatures. Maastricht, a city situated on both sides of the River Maas (River Meuse in French) in the south-eastern part of Netherlands, is arguably the oldest in the country. The city overwhelms visitors with its archeological remains, ancient city walls, centuries-old basilicas and labyrinthine caves all entwined along the banks of River Maas. Anyone visiting Maastrict will get a sense of the rise and fall of the many civilizations that thrived here ranging from the Celts and the Romans upto the current population.

The beauty of Mastricht lies in the existence of aging monuments in the midst of a modern and cosmopolitan metropolis. It is hard to imagine an Aston Martin parked alongside the historic city wall but that is the bewildering contrast that this city offers. The buildings look antique as though they date from a different era. Peer through one of the grand windows and that thought will instantly fade away. These buildings are fitted with all the modern amenities preserving the classic architecture but without missing any of the comforts.

One of our first stops in Maastricht was the 'Apostelhoeve' vineyard nestled in the scenic valley of the Jeker on the south side of the city of Maastricht. The large tourist bus we were travelling in somehow managed to get past the narrow, winding roads leading upto the vineyard. The entire area is full of Cherry blossoms making this location a photographer's paradise. During the guided tour inside the vineyard, we were shown the places where the vines are cultivated, the area where the delicate manufacturing process of wine takes place and the cellar where the wine is kept until maturity. There was a wine-tasting session afterwards during which all the visitors got to taste at least three different wines made in 'Apostelhoeve'.

We came back to the banks of River Maas for a boat trip leading to the famed St. Pietersberg caves. The churches, charming villas, sprawling landscape, appartments and other city structures on either side of the river are a sight to see. The warm sunshine and the cold breeze evoked a mixture of emotions in us while we were aboard the boat.

The St. Pietersberg caves are the result of prolonged excavation in search of a building stone called Marl. The mining left a network of more than 20,000 passages. The terrifying darkness and chill atmosphere inside the caves speak volumes of the lives of the miners who worked in these caves. The caves were also a source of refuge for the city inhabitants during times of war. The guide, holding an old-fashioned lantern, outlined the history of the caves and the meaning of some of the inscriptions on the walls. Some of the inscriptions marked the ownership of certain portions of the caves, others were charcoal-engravings displaying religious & patriotic emotions and still others were advertisements meant for the local population. The stone-hewers who worked long hours in these mines also scribbled on these walls in an attempt to preserve their memory.

We were back on the boat after this hour long tour of the caves. The captain explained a little about the city while we cruised down the river. We entered Belgian waters for some time but then reversed to the centre of Maastricht. We were back in the Crown Plaza hotel situated adjacent to the river after a tiring day in this border city nestled between Netherlands, Belgium and Germany.

We were on a mission to discover the heritage of Maastrict the next day. A walk through the old city centre is the best means to discover the historic structures, churches, cobbled streets, decorative buildings and the city wall. The boutiques and eateries along the narrow streets swarmed with people out for a leisurely stroll. In the midst the old city, there is a park offering a splendid view of the city wall as well as some respite from the crowds.

Onze Lieve Vrouwebasiliek (Basilica of the Virgin Mary) is one of structures dominating the old city centre. This millstone structure dates from before 1000 AD and is among the oldest churches of Maastrict. The entrance to the impressive basilica is through a dimly-lit prayer hall. The chapel is lighted with candles lit by the faithful who throng the basilica in search of the blessings of Virgin Mary. The interiors of the church are richly decorated with tapestries, stained-glass, silver figurines and sculptures depicting biblical characters.

We moved on to the market square or the main Vrijthof Square in Maastricht. Besides the bustling commercial activity, the main attractions here are the Guard house, St. Johns Cathedral and the St. Servatius Basilica.

St. John's Church, built in the 13th century, has two towering, gothic spires overlooking the city. There is a distinct pulpit and some paintings dating from the 1400s. The tower can be reached through a narrow, spiral staircase consisting of 218 stairs. The steep climb up is tiring but there is a breath-taking view of the city from the top of the spires.

After a dizzying descent through the stairs, we decided to tour the Treasury Basilica of St. Servatius. I was taken aback by the sheer magnitude of the basilica. This imposing structure is a treasure trove of culture, history, tradition, architecture and religion. The basilica encompasses all the charms of the city and pours forth a saga of the greatness of its inhabitants. The remains of the first Bishop of the low contries, St. Servatius, is interred in a crypt below the basilica. This shrine, called the Chest of Emergency, houses the skeleton of the Bishop. Other treasures inside St. Servatius Basilica include the cup of St. Servatius, the bust reliquary, the pectoral cross, the key, the crosier and the items made in precious metal or ivory all dating from the 10th to the 15th century.

I felt a deep sense of history and tradition after viewing the relics. I kept thinking of how difficult it must have been to build such a gigantic structure and decorate it so richly. The ceilings had intricate chandeliers, elaborate paintings and complex sculptures. The arches were collossal and fashioned in the early baroque style. Even the flooring was unique with patterned tiles and carvings. This basilica is monumental and I consider visiting this structure to be the experience of a life-time.

We made some time for shopping in the Maastricht streets adjoining the city square. There are a large number of boutiques and department stores in the city-centre region. The shops cater to a variety of tastes and interests. There are small restaurants serving customers local delicacies, antique shops revealing instant bargains, garment outlets marketing aggressively and haute-couture boutiques with fashion accessories on display.

I left Maastrict feeling mesmerized at this combination of a glorious past and the ultra-modern present. The old co-exists with the new in Maastricht or in other words, the past is cherished and preserved in this city. It is exactly this blend that draws tourists to this region. A few days in Maastrict left me awed at the genius of its former citizens and the nurturing approach of the present authorities. To the visitors, it seems as though the city is touching modernity while firmly holding on to its past. I am sure that Maastricht will satisfy those who are on the look out for adventure, nature, history, religion as well as some enticing city-life.